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Journal

De Bethune: Classical Innovation

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November 2026 • reviews
De Bethune: Classical Innovation

The DB25 Monopusher Chronograph and DB25VXS Silver Moon reveal De Bethune’s classical side, pairing refined dials and elegant proportions with forward-looking mechanics.

De Bethune often brings to mind spaceships for the wrist. Yet the manufacture’s vocabulary also includes Breguet numerals, guilloché dials and blued hands. The DB25 collection expresses this sensibility, demonstrating how classical aesthetics can coexist with avant-garde mechanical research.

DB25 Monopusher Chronograph: Elegance Meets Experimentation

At first glance, the DB25 Monopusher Chronograph could evoke a refined chronograph from the 1930s. Breguet numerals, heat-blued hands and a beautifully executed guilloché dial create a balanced composition. The distinctive case design establishes its De Bethune identity, giving the watch a contemporary character.

That identity becomes even clearer within the movement. The patented titanium balance wheel with white gold inserts is designed to improve stability and performance. De Bethune’s proprietary patented balance spring and silicon escape wheel further support efficiency and precision.

The chronograph is operated through a single coaxial pusher integrated into the crown. It controls the central chronograph seconds hand and features an instantaneous 60-minute counter at six o’clock. Concentrating operation in a single element preserves the clean lines of the case.

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DB25VXS Silver Moon: The Moon in Three Dimensions

While the chronograph explores De Bethune’s relationship with chronometry, the DB25VXS Silver Moon places the connection between watchmaking and astronomy centre stage.

The silver-toned, hand-guilloché dial combines Breguet numerals with classical proportions. Its appearance is restrained, almost understated, yet the eye is immediately drawn to the sphere at twelve o’clock: a miniature celestial body that adds a sculptural dimension to the display.

This is De Bethune’s patented spherical moon-phase indication. Crafted from palladium and flame-blued steel, it reproduces the lunar cycle with a deviation of just one day every 122 years. Mechanical precision meets a compelling visual representation, giving the Moon volume, presence and depth.

Turn the watch over, and its experimental character becomes clearer still. The polished titanium movement reveals several signatures of De Bethune’s engineering: the patented balance architecture, the silicon escape wheel and the triple pare-chute shock-absorbing system.

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Tradition as a Starting Point

The DB25 Monopusher Chronograph and DB25VXS Silver Moon offer complementary expressions of the same philosophy.

They demonstrate the breadth of De Bethune’s creative language. Even in classical dress, the manufacture retains its experimental spirit. The elegance of the dial opens the story; the mechanics reveal where it is heading.

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